The Business End of
Missile Site Road
— A Tour of Deer Park’s Former Atlas ICBM Bunker —
By Wally
Lee Parker
First published October 2008 in the Clayton/Deer Park Historical Society’s Newsletter,
"The Mortarboard."
August 18, 1961: Atlas Launch Complex 567-1, Deer Park, Washington, missile elevated for dual-propellant loading exercise. Photo courtesy of Dick Mellor, former USAF Ballistic Missile Analyst Technician, 567th Strategic Missile Squadron, Fairchild Air Force Base.
It was Thursday, the 21st day
of August 2008. It was cool. After a hot, bright summer, the last
several days of rain-soaked thunderstorms had moved on, leaving a thin, humid,
afternoon overcast. I was piloting my Toyota pickup eastward on Crawford
Street — out of Deer Park. Bill Sebright, president of the Clayton/Deer
Park Historical Society, was riding shotgun.
We rolled pass the turnoff to the high school, pass the
Evergreen Truss Company, pass the eastward creep of something we thought we’d
never live long enough to see — a suburb to the town. We passed all this
on our way to our 13:00 hour meeting at the north end of Missile Site
Road. We were about to tour Deer Park’s
former missile base — now an explosive’s storage bunker for a company called
Northwest Energetic Services.
Bill Sebright had made the arrangements. As Bill
explained, “While I was substitute teaching at the Deer Park Middle School
this last spring, I was talking with Dan Huffman about some of the society’s
local history projects. Dan’s a music and computer teacher at the
school. The discussion got around to the Clayton/Deer Park Historical
Society’s book about Deer Park’s cold-war-era missile base.”
I know something about the society’s book — Standing Watch: The Story of Deer
Park’s Atlas Intercontinental Ballistic Missile. I wrote it.
Bill continued, “Dan knows Lori Lipke. She works
for the explosives company now operating at the former missile site. Dan
suggested I contact Lori to see if I could arrange for a tour of the old
missile bunker.”
Lori, who works in the company’s office, was really nice
about attempting to accommodate us. One of her superiors was concerned
about us taking photographs of the ‘product’ and the ‘storage bunker’.
There also seemed to be a feeling that there was a lot of misinformation about
what the company was doing at the site, and the managers were concerned as to
whether our visit might compound that even more.
After all was said, we reluctantly agreed to leave our
cameras behind, and the tour was on.
Down a narrow asphalt road, crowded by pines, we rolled to
a stop by the portable building used as the company’s office. Dan Huffman
was waiting for us.
After introductions and a short conference, we entered the
office. Lori met us. She assured us the tour was still on, and we
waited a few minutes until she was able to arrange for someone to cover for her
at the office.
Bill, Dan, and I piled into the Toyota and followed Lori’s
car onto the base proper. The area was singularly unimpressive — since
most everything of interest was underground.
We were now driving over what was once some of the most
sensitive national security ground in the entire nation. I pointed this
out by saying, “Gentlemen, I hope you realize that if this was forty-five
years ago, and we were here, by now we would likely either be lying face down
with an M-1 pointed at the backs of our heads, or quite dead.” After
all, missile site security guards were well known for being rather humorless in
so far as intruders were concerned.
Standing on the north side of the missile base proper were
several large sheds. Another metal shed
stood alone, several hundred yards away against the southeastern tree
line. Lori pulled to a stop and stepped
out onto the gravel roadway. I rolled down my window. “Pull your
truck down the ramp and park along the right retaining wall — by the small
entry door. Wait there while I get Walter Dukes, one of our drivers, to
come unlock the bunker for us.”
The bunker was two buildings — to the southeast the larger
complex containing the missile bay — to the northwest the smaller command and
power generation complex. The two were
connected by a tunnel and separated by a blast door.
The area under which the bunker was buried was somewhat
elevated compared to the surrounding land. Burying the bunker wasn’t
intended to obscure its location. It was buried to offer it some
protection from a conventional or nuclear blast. Otherwise, the ground
above was marked by numerous pipes, ventilation stacks, and several large,
horizontal slab doors — including the massive one covering the missile bay
itself. From our location I couldn’t see to what degree the bunker hatch
had been covered over with soil in the years since the site was
deactivated.
All this aside, it was with some wonder that I guided the
Toyota down the tarmac loading ramp to the missile bay. This was the ramp
down which Atlas E missiles were backed. This was the ramp down which (estimated)
3.75 megaton thermonuclear warheads were transported. And at the end of
this ramp was the huge door leading into a missile bay bunker that once
contained an early version of the world’s ultimate weapon combination.
At the bottom of the ramp, built flush into the surface of
the ramp’s right side retaining wall, was the solid steel personnel entry door
— looking uncommonly small and insignificant compared to the mammoth launch bay
entry door just beyond. Unlike the overhead hatches, both these doors
were still quite functional.
If it’s possible to think of a nuclear weapons system as
primitive, in certain ways the Atlas E would fit that description. For example, at least several times a year,
on clear evenings, the huge missile bay door would be cranked to the side so an
airman with a theodolite — a sophisticated surveyor’s transit — could take
sightings of the North Star from the bottom of this ramp (probably the reason
all Atlas E missile bunkers were laid out with the entry ramp on the north side
of the complex). Those readings would be
used for line-of-sight fine-tuning of the mechanics of the missile’s guidance system.
The most advanced part of the missile — the eight cubic
feet of solid-state on-board computer — was less intelligent than a modern
wristwatch calculator. But at that
moment it was state of the art — and top secret (and as with most top secrets,
probably unknown to almost everyone except the Russians, Chinese, and
Israelis). And even as primitive as the
state of the art was, it could still rain unstoppable destruction down on a
target many thousands of miles away — and do so with all necessary accuracy.
Although I had written a booklet for the society about this
bunker, I hadn’t been able to arrange a tour of the site while writing the
story — probably due to the same concerns the explosives company’s management
had recently expressed. Instead, I had
depended on declassified government documents and the memories of several dozen
former missileers. I was anxious to find
out how closely those diagrams, photos, and descriptions — after being
reconstructed inside my imagination — meshed with the physical reality.
As Walt pulled up, Lori asked us, “Did you bring
flashlights? There’s lots of dark
corners and holes.”
Bill, always the diplomat, replied, “I hadn’t realized
we were supposed to.”
Lori, waving her flashlight, returned, “Just don’t step
out of the light without one of us along.”
Walt unlocked the metal personnel entry door and swung it
outward. Beyond this door was a small
vestibule perhaps four feet deep, then a second door. This second door of heavy plate steel also
opened toward the outside.
This vestibule was originally a security containment
area. It was much smaller than it had
appeared on the diagrams — so small that two men secured between the doors
would have had difficulty pulling the inner door open and squeezing around the
edge. Watching the five of us walk
through the portal, I couldn’t see how a five man launch crew would manage.
Spokane’s Bob Lemley had been a Ballistic Missile Analyst
Technician with Fairchild Air Force Base’s 567th
Strategic Missile Squadron — and an Atlas E launch crew member. He was also one of my most valuable
consultants while I was writing our booklet — ‘Standing Watch’.
I asked him to explain how security protocol passing through such a
cramped impoundment was possible for a five-man crew.
“The entire missile complex was being monitored by a closed-circuit
television system,” Bob replied. “Most
of the cameras were fixed, though there was a movable camera topside that
turned 360 degrees to sweep the entire complex.
Other fixed cameras were located strategically throughout the exterior
complex — among those was one over the large launch bay door, observing the
entire loading ramp, and one over the personnel entry door, giving a detailed
view of anyone requesting entry.
“Views from all these cameras could be displayed on
monitors in the launch control room.
“Incoming airmen would have identified themselves at the
main gate by telephone link to the bunker before that gate would have been
unlocked. Once inside the perimeter
fence, they were under constant observation as they approached the personnel
door. If protocol had not been followed
to that point, the approaching airmen would be challenged by the outside guards.
“Inside, the missile bay had several cameras, the
warhead was under constant watch by a camera, the long tunnel leading to the
launch control room had its camera, and the impoundment area between the outer
and inner personnel entry doors had a camera.
“The impoundment area was very small — really designed
for only one person at a time. But there
was sufficient room for that one person to pull the outer door shut behind,
then pull the inner door open into the impoundment area.
“Missile crews consisted of five men. The missile crew commander was the first
person through the door system — the outside door being unlocked remotely from
the launch control room. He would pull
the exterior door shut behind, and it was relocked from the control room.
“Confined in the vestibule, and under observation, the
crew commander used the impoundment area’s telephone to talk to the onsite crew
commander — giving him the day’s password.
Once the incoming commander’s identity was confirmed, and it was clear
he was not under duress from the outside, both interior and exterior doors were
remotely unlocked, and the entire crew was allowed to enter.
“Crew officers knew each other by sight and voice. Other incoming airmen, such as maintenance
personnel, would be left in the impoundment area until one of the inside
personnel was able to meet them at the second door and escort them directly to
the commander for identification. After
that, one of the missile crew — often me — would have to babysit the
maintenance crewman — keep him under constant observation — as he did his work.”
Bob’s explanation solved the extra small impoundment area
problem.
Entering the bunker, we moved westward down the 20 some
foot long access tunnel. The site’s two
tunnels were both made from corrugated metal pipe. Enough concrete had been poured and leveled
on the bottoms of these pipes to form a walkway several feet wide. At the end of this first tunnel was a
landing. From this dividing point the
second tunnel ran north toward the launch control bunker. A doorway and a few steps down in the
opposite direction took us into the launch bay equipment area. This large space — approximately forty-five
by one-hundred and some odd feet — at one time contained the logic units used
to monitor the missile’s preflight condition and store its flight program. In the southern portion of this room were all
the pumps, engines, tanks, and control devises needed for retracting the
overhead launch bay hatch, elevating the missile, and pumping the petroleum
part of the rocket’s propellant into the missile from storage tanks buried
outside the bunker's walls. The room had
long since been stripped of every vestige of its original purpose. Scattered across the floor were pallets
stacked with sacks of Northwest Energetic Services’ product.
A doorway through the thick concrete eastern wall led into
the missile’s launch bay. At the north
end of this bay was the huge metal entry door — just outside of which my Toyota
sat.
The missile would have rested in this twenty-foot wide,
twenty-foot high, and one-hundred and ten-foot long bay — would have rested
slung under its erection tower. The
missile’s engines would have been on the south end of the bay. When the missile was erected and launched,
the rocket’s blast would have been directed down a flame tunnel which curved to
the south and reemerged at the surface some distance beyond. This tunnel’s exit was capped with a sliding
hatch that would retract at the same time the launch bay’s overhead hatch was
withdrawn. For safety, the opening dropping
into the flame tunnel was now covered with wooden planks.
Again, almost everything metal had been salvaged from this
area.
Overhead was four-hundred tons of hatch. When operational, that four-hundred tons
could be jolted upward six inches by pressurized nitrogen gas, and then winched
away to the west — all in thirty seconds.
Without the original equipment, the only practical way to remove the
hatch was jackhammers and dump trucks.
Walt Dukes stated that on numerous occasions he has parked
two fully loaded semi-trailers and their trucks side by side in the bay, with
plenty of room to spare.
We moved on into the most easterly section of the bunker —
the liquid oxygen room. This area was
roughly eighteen feet wide and seventy some feet long. The floor level varied, some section being
four or more feet lower than others. The
east wall was pierced by a corrugated tunnel that once housed the liquid oxygen
tank. The entire area had been packed
with the machinery necessary to maintain and pump the volatile three hundred
plus degrees below zero liquefied gas.
Most everything metal had now been stripped away.
We retreated to the landing at the west end of the entry
tunnel, then walked north along the long tunnel to the command section. This corrugated metal shaft had once been
lined with power and communication conduits.
Now a single plastic retrofit conduit carried electrical wires to that
section of the bunker.
The wall at the end of the tunnel still carried the painted
Strategic Air Command shield. Around
that wall to the left was a door leading to the launch command room. And straight on was a half dozen steps
leading down to the bunker’s kitchen, and then on into the power room.
The small kitchen, except for a missing refrigerator, was
exactly as it had looked when the site was decommissioned in the spring of
1965. The range was enameled in a not
quite pleasing shade of Autumn Gold — an upscale choice for consumers when the
site was activated in 1961.
West of the kitchen was the doorway into the empty power
generation room. When operational, the
entire missile site was totally isolated from the outside world. Not a single power line entered the site —
and not a single phone line entered or left the site. All power used by the base was created by the
huge diesel generators situated in this room.
One of those two generators was always running. During launch drills both would be activated.
As we walked around the remains of the pillars on which the
motors had set, we noted a dark patch covering the floor. A flashlight across the dark revealed the
patch to be a mirror calm surface of startlingly clear water, areas of which
were a centimeter or two deep, and other areas of which dropped at least four
feet down into a maze of concrete trenches and open pipes.
“Okay”, Bill said.
“Safety hint. Let’s do exactly
what Lori said and not walk into dark corners.”
In the northeast corner of this room was the command
bunker’s escape hatch. Opened by a cable
attached to the wall some distance away, the ceiling hatch consisted of a
bottom door — now hanging down by its hinges — then perhaps four feet of
circular pipe, the side nearest the wall lined with metal bars intended for
hand and foot grips. This section of
pipe would originally have been filled with sand to cushion against outside
blast and radiation. Pulling the cable
released the lower hatch, allowing the sand to drop to the floor. Metal bars cast into the wall below the hatch
allowed the airmen to climb through the bottom hatch. Once inside the pipe, they’d open the outer
hatch and climb out of the bunker.
A hallway to the east side of the crew’s kitchen led to the
crew quarters, shower room, and such.
The red door first seen when rounding the wall from the
access tunnel led into launch control.
Signs indicated that this was an area in which the ‘two-man rule’
applied. No less than two authorized
members of the crew were to be in this section at one time. No one should have ever been alone in this
area — not out of concern that they might launch the missile by themselves (a
possibility that the layout of the launch system made physically impossible),
but rather because of the top-secret codebooks always accessible in the area.
The space below the elevated wooden floor of this area was
used to thread webs of cables to and from the machines in the room above.
At one time this dim and dusty room was the potential
launch point for World War III. Now it
sits as still and lifeless as the tombs containing the bones of the two men,
John F. Kennedy and Nikita Khrushchev, who once came within a breath of
ordering the death of an entire planet.
Once back into the sunlight, we all commented that the
complex was smaller than we had expected — expectations probably inflated by
our recognition of the site’s historic importance.
On the way out of the site we drove by the microwave
pillbox — a rectangular concrete box with an opaque fiberglass dome on its
southwest wall through which microwaves were beamed toward Lookout
Mountain. This was part of the secure
communication web connecting all nine Atlas missile bases with the 567th Missile
Squadron's headquarters at Fairchild.
After the site had passed into civilian hands, a metal building had been
built over part of the pillbox.
As we left Northwest Energetic Services’ property, I
consider to what extent my booklet about the missile site might have differed
if I’d had access to the site while writing.
I’d have used a tape measure to get accurate measurements. I’d have had a much better sense of the scale
of the place. But since the bulk of the story
was drawn from original government documents, and the recollections on the
missileers who served at Deer Park and the other Atlas E bunkers around the
area and around the nation, there’s little I feel I would want to change.
Over the years inaccuracies and misunderstandings about the
weapon systems have become commonplace.
The Atlas E bunkers are often described as silos — which they obviously
were not. People envision the missiles
sitting upright, fueled, and just a push-button away from launch during the
first several weeks of the Cuban Missile Crisis. The nature of the Atlas E missile’s
mechanical systems would have made that exceedingly dangerous for both the
missile and crew. Besides which, the
missileers manning Fairchild’s bunkers during the crisis have indicated such
did not happen. And then there are
suggestions that the Deer Park bunker is the nexus of a vast, underground, cold
war survival complex. But for those
entertaining that X-file style theory, there’s little point in suggesting otherwise.
Bill, Dan, and I want to thank the management of Northwest
Energetic Services for allowing us to view the remains of Deer Park’s missile
base. Due to the nature of the business
being carried out on the property, public tours, though likely popular, would be
extremely problematic.
And we especially want to thank Lori Lipke and Walter Dukes
for quite literally shining some light into several exceedingly dark corners of
Deer Park’s history.
——— end ———